REVIEW: Chotto Matte Restaurant, Soho

By Chrissy Iley

When my friend who is half Peruvian invited me to Chotto Matte in Frith street I thought, it must be a good thing. We all know about Peruvian food – it’s chic – it’s the go to gourmet cuisine of choice. It has been reconstructed in the now… this place is fusion cuisine – yes that 90’s phrase is making a comeback – it is Peruvian and Japanese, which means it is very exciting.

The menu is huge; and I wanted all of it. We had a sharing menu simply because we wanted everything. It included yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno, coriander and yuzu truffle sauce. Light, spicy, fresh, clever. I also went for the wild prawn tempura with butter ponzu.

Why is this not Japanese you think? The prawns were lighter with more spice than soy and the sashimi had a different kind of marinade- a different kick  to it. The food was still clean, but quirky. The purple potato pure with yuzu was the fluffiest most comforting potato dish ever. There was aubergine mizo with apricot and sesame seeds, all heavenly stuff.

The restrooms downstairs are space age wonderment and worth going for those alone.

But the best moment of our meeting at Chotto Matte was when I discovered the Pisco Sour. It was a defining moment in time. The is THE cocktail.
Pisco is a Peruvian liquor, which I imagine in its virgin state is sort of vodka like. And the sour is made similar to any sour; with limejuice, simple syrup, whisked up egg white with the option of angostura bitters. The Pisco Sour was a revelation. I loved its limey-ness, its refreshing and indulging fluff of egg whites. Chotto Matte`s version was a masterpiece. It was after tasted it there that I realized that Pisco Sours have taken on the world.
A week later in Soho House I ordered their version. It was lighter in colour and less fluffy; still great. A few days later in Crouch End at Bar Esteban another version came; this one was more intense, sexier, but still fluffy and still moreish.

Just to check that the Chotto Matte one was the best I went back there. The original is like eating an incredibly exciting cloud. I noticed they were lined up at the bar like lemony tea lights… and realised that I was not the only one that had made the discovery; the place was swarming with these alcoholic clouds and as a result everyone was happy.

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