Tonkotsu is a new Ramen bar on Soho’s Dean Street. It has huge pots of glorious pork stock bubbling away in the windows to entice hungry passers by. And entice it does. The stock is the key to its success. The recipe, which calls for it to be lovingly prepared over 18 hours by owners Emma Reynolds and Ken Yamada, is very good. In fact, forget good, it’s bloody brilliant. They have totally nailed it – the clear stock is rich almost to the point of being creamy and has a soft silky texture. The flavour is so intense and seemed to get more pronounced as it settled in the bowls.
Tonkotsu offers a short and sweet menu with three different ramen and side dishes. A small block of tofu, £4 was served in the purist of forms with the addition of a few shredded spring onions. Thankfully, and with the advice of the waiter, I was able to douse it in chilli and soy sauce, which took it to a heavenly place. We also had a bowl of hand made pork and prawn goyoza, £5. The expertly pinched dumplings had a wonderful flavour and really firm texture.
Next came the Tonkotsu ramen, £11. Thin slices of pork, egg, spring onions and fine egg noodles covered in the amazing porky broth. It was richer than any ramen I have had in the past and was a thousand times more flavourful. I eat very quickly when I like something and my bowl was licked clean by the time the waiter came back to fill our water glasses. Simple things done well are the recipe to success and the Tonkotsu Ramen delivered just that. I can’t wait to go back for more.
Tonkotsu Ramen, 63 Dean Street, www.tonkotsu.co.uk, @tonkotsulondon, www.facebook.co.uk/tonkotsu